Wuhan 武汉
Three towns, two rivers, one breakfast culture. Your entry point, and the place to learn how China works today.
See
Yellow Crane Tower黄鹤楼
The tower every Chinese schoolchild can quote a poem about, on Snake Hill above the Yangtze. Rebuilt in 1985; the view over the river and the First Yangtze Bridge is the point.
Hubei Provincial Museum湖北省博物馆
Home of the Zeng Hou Yi bells — 65 bronze bells from 433 BC that still play in perfect tune — and the 2,500-year-old Sword of Goujian that has never rusted.
East Lake Greenway东湖绿道
China's largest urban lake, ringed by 100 km of car-free greenway. Rent a shared bike and ride Moshan's cherry blossoms, Tingtao's willows and the lotus in summer.
Tanhualin昙华林
A hillside lane of century-old churches, mission schools and courtyard houses in Wuchang, now full of small cafés, ceramics studios and postcard shops.
Hankou Bund & Old Concessions汉口江滩·老租界
The riverside promenade and the brick mansions of the former British, Russian, French, German and Japanese concessions. Li Huangpi Road is the pretty street; the ferry is the best ¥1.5 in China.
Wuhan University Cherry Blossoms武大樱花
For about two weeks each March, Cherry Blossom Avenue on the university's Luojia Hill campus becomes the most photographed street in central China.
Eat
Hot Dry Noodles热干面
Wuhan's morning ritual: springy alkaline noodles tossed in sesame paste, pickled radish and chili oil. No soup, eaten fast, often while walking.
Three-Fresh Doupi三鲜豆皮
A crisp mung-bean and egg crêpe folded over glutinous rice, mushrooms, pork and bamboo shoots, fried on a giant iron plate and cut into squares.
Mianwo Rice Doughnut面窝
A savoury rice-and-soy ring, crisp at the rim and thin in the middle, fried in a shallow iron ladle with a bump in the centre.
Fish Paste Rice Noodle Soup糊汤粉
Thin rice noodles in a thick, peppery soup made by simmering tiny wild fish for hours. Served with a fried dough stick to tear into it.
Lotus Root & Pork Rib Soup排骨藕汤
Hubei's home-cooking soul: starchy Honghu lotus root simmered with pork ribs until the root turns powdery-soft and the broth goes faintly pink.
Steamed Wuchang Fish清蒸武昌鱼
A tender bream from Liangzi Lake, steamed whole with ham, mushroom and bamboo shoots. The fish Mao Zedong wrote a poem about.
Spicy Duck Neck鸭脖
Duck necks braised in a numbing-spicy brine of chilies, Sichuan pepper and dozens of spices. Wuhan's favourite late-night and train snack.
Qianjiang Braised Crayfish潜江油焖大虾
Big crayfish braised in oil, garlic and chili. From May to August the whole province eats them by the kilo with beer, gloves on.
Hongshan Purple Stem with Cured Pork洪山菜薹炒腊肉
A purple-stemmed winter brassica grown only around Hongshan in Wuchang, stir-fried with smoky cured pork. Sweet, crunchy and once a tribute vegetable to emperors.
Egg Rice Wine蛋酒
Sweet fermented rice wine (米酒) poured over a whisked egg, served hot. Barely alcoholic, the classic partner to hot dry noodles.
Do, with a local
Liangdao Street food walk粮道街
Wuchang's student food street: 30 stalls in 500 m, on no tourist map.
Han opera excerpt in Tanhualin昙华林听汉剧
Twenty minutes of the opera that fathered Peking opera, plot whispered by your host.
Stay
Wuchang · Yellow Crane side武昌
South bank of the Yangtze: Yellow Crane Tower, Tanhualin, the museum and East Lake. Quieter at night, closer to sights, easy trains from Wuchang and Wuhan stations.
- Near Line 2/4 interchange at Zhongnan Road or Hongshan Square
- Boutique hotels around Tanhualin
- International chains by East Lake
Foreign passports: Chains and 4–5 star hotels all register foreign passports. Small guesthouses around Tanhualin may not — confirm before booking.
Hankou · River & concessions汉口
North bank: Jianghan Road, the Bund, Li Huangpi Road cafés and Wanshong Road crayfish. Most restaurants, most evening life, Hankou Station for HSR to Yichang.
- Jianghan Road / Xunlimen on Line 2 for everything walkable
- Heritage hotels inside the old concessions
- Business hotels near Hankou Station for early trains
Foreign passports: Very reliable — this is where most international hotels are. Historic boutique hotels are popular with foreign guests.
Optics Valley · Guanggu光谷
The university-and-startup district in the southeast. Cheap, modern and lively, but 40 minutes from the sights. Good if you are visiting a campus or company.
- Line 2 south end: Guanggu Square / Optics Valley Plaza
- New-build chains, very affordable
Foreign passports: Modern chains register foreigners without trouble.